Hey Joe! Tropical Island Dreaming

What happened in Manila and the surrounding provinces is not exactly new news. I’m pretty late out the gate with this one. I was traveling in the Eastern Visayas (specifically Leyte and Biliran) when these two typhoons passed through. I did follow the news and the relief efforts but I had no Internet access for several days.

The normal storm track for most of these storms is to head straight into Samar and then turn north just before it gets there. Dumping lots of rain on Samar and Leyte but not usually doing much damage. (Occasionally though one keeps going straight through.)

Once they turn north they either move along the east coast of Leyte or they swerve and go up the middle. Flooding in Manila is not uncommon during this time of the year but it is not normally so devastating.

A lot of Manila and the surrounding areas are built on the flood plain of the Pasig River. Several smaller rivers also flow through to the north and south. Over the years development in low lying areas and the clogging of the river and drainage channels with garbage have made these areas a disaster waiting to happen. The Manila area and the areas above it received a very heavy rainfall in a very short time and the water had nowhere to go but into the low areas surrounding the rivers.

The government has launched relief efforts and foreign aid is coming in to assist. To date the death toll stands at around 600 and many people are still stranded in flooded areas. It may be quite some time before some of the flooded areas are above water again. I hope the health agencies involved in this operation are taking precautions to prevent widespread illness in the people exposed to all that contaminated water and mud.

Let us hope that the low lying areas will not be developed again to prevent such a loss of life and property in the future. I offer my sincere condolences to everyone affected by this tragedy.

Anyone who has traveled in the third world can’t help but notice the extreme poverty in which many of the people live. The Philippines are no exception to this. You see examples of it almost everywhere you go. In the cities you see beggars (Despite the fact that most cities have ordinances against begging or giving to beggars) and homeless living in the streets. Sometimes you see whole communities of squatters. (These are people who live on unoccupied land that belongs to someone else.) Some of these people have employment some do not but even the ones who are employed make wages to low to provide for themselves. 

In the Cities and larger towns you will see beggars. Sometimes they sit on the sidewalk sometimes they wander through traffic knocking on car windows when traffic stops. It is a sad site to see. However before  you give to these people there are some things you should know. Things are not always as they appear. Many of these beggars especially the children have managers who take most of the money they receive. Often the poor girl with the baby has borrowed the baby from a friend or neighbor so she can get more money. Some of the children begging have homes and are trying to pick up money for snacks or video games. Many of the true street children are rugby addicts (Glue Sniffers) and will spend the money on their habit not on food.

Another consideration before giving money is the people you give too will remember you and they will ask you every time they see you. Sometimes quite aggressively. Also any others who saw you give will also  ask. I normally do not give money to beggars. I will sometimes give them fruit or food. That way at least you know they will eat it. If you offer someone food and they refuse it you know they they are not as deprived as they appear. So what can be done? Giving to individuals in the street does no long term good for them. Also in some places you can be fined for doing so.

Unemployment is high and opportunities are low especially for those who cannot afford education. Wages are very low so many who work are still on the edge of poverty. So this will continue to be a growing problem as the population rises. The Philippine government provides few services to the poor. Religious and Charity groups provide assistance as well. A number of expats with available time and money assist these groups with their work.

I have listed a few charity groups I am aware of  in the links on the right column of the page. There are of course many others if you inquire. Not all charities are created equal so you should look into the services they provide and how the donations are spent before you contribute. I say this because some charities use a very large portion of the money donated for administrative costs. The more used for this purpose the less that makes it where it is really needed. So do a little homework to be sure at least most of your money will be used for what you intended it for. If you don’t want to contribute cash but still want to help look for a charity that accepts volunteers for their projects.

My purpose for this post is not to solicit for any particular organization or charity but just to offer some thoughts about what foreigners might do if they wish to help those around them who are truly in need. While most are not as rich as many Filipinos believe we are it is still possible to make a difference in a positive way.

Well now you’re here and you have a place I guess the next thing to decide is where do we sit. There are furnished apartments available to rent in many places. The furnishings supplied may not be to your taste and of course the rent will be higher on furnished units. The advantage to a furnished place is that it is easier for getting started since it will already have at least some of the things you need. Furnished you will find is open to some interpretation so what is actually furnished will vary widely.

If you decide to furnish yourself you will find a number of options available to you depending on your budget and what kind of furniture you prefer or can afford.

The big department stores sell furniture there are also numerous retail outlets in town at least in the larger towns. If you are in a remote area the selection will be much less. In addition to purchasing from a store it is also possible to purchase custom made furniture at what are considered in the west to be pretty reasonable prices. There is also native bamboo and rattan furniture as well as moulded plastic for those on a limited budget. The custom furniture places sometimes have retail outlets and sometimes you go directly to the factory. There were some of these places that manufactured exclusively for export but with the economic downturn many now entertain local clients as well. There is quite a bit to choose from if you take the time to look around.

I have heard from several expats that the quality of furniture being sold in retail outlets is not good. I haven’t seriously shopped for furniture myself so I cannot confirm or deny these reports. The items I have seen in the stores have looked nice but I did not closely examine them or give them the sit test. I have a rather tight budget for the moment so I opted for the locally made bamboo furniture. A couch two chairs a table and a floor lamp came in at about P2500. The cushions and the wiring for the lamp were extra but the total cost was still below P4000.

Native bamboo and rattan can often be purchased directly along the road (That’s where I got mine). This furniture is usually available quite cheaply and is often well made and sturdy. Just examine your purchases before you pay for them. (That is often true no matter where you buy. Very few places will accept returns)

Appliances tend to be smaller than in the US though full size models of some products are available. They may be much more expensive than what you would pay at home. The small refrigerator in the picture is a frost free and cost about P20,000 new. Most stoves are LP gas and are just the burners without an oven. Stoves with ovens are available. Keep in mind that electricity is also expensive in the Philippines so smaller appliances might be the way to go unless you really need the larger ones.

 

So what about a place to live? In the Philippines there are plenty of styles to choose from from High rise condos to native nipa huts. What is available to you depends a lot on where you choose to live. The prices also vary accordingly like all other things the more western features you desire the more it will cost you.  Manila is one of the most expensive places to live especially if you want to live in a condo or an apartment with western amenities.

Houses and apartments are available for rent in just about every City and Town. The High Rise Condos are more limited in availability and are only available in larger Cities. There are exclusive subdivisions with western style houses for rent as well as many subdivisions and residential areas where houses and apartments are available for more modest budgets. If you are looking for a moderately priced place these can be found in most places from P5000 to P25000 per month. The more westernized places in exclusive areas would be P30000 and up. Sometimes way up depending on where you are looking.

Many apartments will have only cold running water. If you need air conditioning you will normaly have to purchase it yourself. Outlets are almost 220VAC so if you bring appliances from home you may need transformers to convert the voltage. Also be aware in some units you may find fewer outlets than you might be used to. Sometimes only one in a room. 110VAC is available in some areas or if you have a house you may be able to have the power company install a transformer. You will of course have to pay for that.

The houses and apartments tend to be smaller than in the US. Bigger units are available if you look. You can usually find something to satisfy your housing requirements.

There are no central real estate listings like in the US. You usually find a place by going to an area where you would like to live and looking around for rental signs. Many people also get referrals from friends about available units near them. There are real estate companies that will help you look but they usually only show the places listed with them.

I only mentioned renting  in this post because foreigners are not allowed to own property in the Philippines. The exception to this rule is for high rise condo units. There are some restrictions on those as well. Condos are usually priced P3.5 million and up depending on the size and the amenities.  Whatever you find and wherever you decide to live don’t expect it to be just like the place you left behind.

I would like to mention I am not a real estate agent so the places pictured here are those typical of types where most foreigners might consider renting. I have no idea if any of the places pictured are actually available or what the exact price for rental would be. In the places I mentioned prices it is just a price range that this type of unit would be in. There are units available below P10000.

For those unfamiliar with apartments in the Philippines I would like to mention a couple of additional things. A lot of places in the Philippines have what is referred to as a dirty kitchen. (this doesn’t mean the kitchen is unclean) It is an area outside the house. Sometimes covered sometimes not where residents do a lot of their cooking and laundry. Most of the apartments I showed have them I mentioned the one I knew that did not. Most houses will also have them.

 The Philippines is a Beautiful Country that is filled with hospitable people. It is possible to live a comfortable lifestyle for less than in many parts of the world. I have been traveling to the Philippines for over 25 years. There have been many changes and improvements over the years and overall the standard of living of many of the people has risen.

I would however like to add a word of caution. The Philippines is a developing nation and the poor people here tend to be very poor. The Infrastructure in most areas is what those in the West would consider poor. Many areas suffer brownouts due it insufficient power generating capacity. Many roads and bridges are in poor condition due to poor maintenance. Building codes are nonexistent or unenforced in many areas and poor upkeep is apparent in all but a few areas. Public transportation in many areas is inadequate and inefficient as are many government functions.

I am not meaning to paint a gloomy picture to frighten but merely to inform those unfamiliar with the Philippines the kinds of things they can expect to encounter when they visit. For those not accustomed to these things it takes getting used to. This is a big reason why I recommended in an earlier post that people who are unfamiliar with the Philippines visit at least once or twice to become familiar with these differences. Some might even decide the Philippines is not the right place for them.

The culture of the Philippines is a unique mixture of east and west. Like much of the rest of the developing world they face problems with a growing population. They have their own unique way of doing things which may not seem to make sense to the average foreigner. Always remember that you are the stranger with strange ideas not them. There is no place you can go that doesn’t have it’s own set of problems. The question is can you adapt to the differences and learn to appreciate the good things the Philippines has to offer.

Another item which has multiple possible solutions. You have friends or family you want to be able to stay in contact with when you go home. Or you have moved to the Philippines and you want to stay in touch with your friends and family at home. I’ll talk about some of the most common methods of communicating or sending stuff, and some of the pros and cons of each. If anyone has additional practical methods or more info on the methods I mention please feel free to jump right in.

Mail: The postal service or snail mail as some of the younger kids call it. The two main disadvantage of this method are the time it takes and the fact that sometimes it may not get there. Especially large envelopes or Cards that might contain cash. Also I know many people, especially younger people just don’t like to write.

The main advantage is it goes everywhere even to remote barrios where the Internet and phones are not available. I like to write letters and cards you can tell a lot about people by the letters they send. If it is necessary to send important papers I use registered mail. It is slower but I have never had a registered letter lost in transit.

For Military Retirees living in the Philippines Limited mail service is available through the military FPO system. No faster than regular mail but less disappearances of items sent. This service is primarily for personal letters, bills, and prescriptions. You can check with the nearest RAO to get the details on this service.  

Delivery Service: Fed Ex, UPS, DHL etc. These are faster than the regular postal service and you can ship small items. Certain items are not allowed to be shipped the list varies by country. Check with the carriers about what you want to ship. These items are subject to customs duties so the addressee may have to pay to get delivery.

Balikbayan Box: If you need to ship a lot of stuff this is the way to do it for the least cost. It is usually sent by surface shipment so it will take a while to get there, but the carriers involved take care of the customs clearances so you don’t have to worry about the addressee having to pay to get it. Some companies also ship by air so you get faster delivery but it is significantly more expensive. There a number of companies around the world that ship these boxes to the Philippines.

E-mail: Good for fast communication you can also send pictures. E-mail however is not available everywhere in the Philippines. If the person you e-mail does not have their own computer they will have to use a friends computer or go to an Internet cafe and rent computer time to read and reply. 

Online Chatting: More personal than e-mail because you are communicating in real time. With a web-cam and a microphone it is the next best thing to being there. Has the same disadvantages as e-mail.

Telephone: While the rates have come down in recent years this can be an expensive option. It is a fast way to pass information along. Also phone service is not available or is unreliable in the more remote areas. Even Cell phone service is not universal although it covers most of the areas. In the Philippines the receiver of the call is not charged even on a cell phone it is the caller who pays.

Texting:Texting is a big hit in the Philippines. Anyone who can does. Still not everyone has a cell phone. Texting within the Philippines is fairly inexpensive unless you send three or four hundred messages a day. As with calling it is the sender of the text who pays.

International texting gets a little trickier. It can be much more expensive to send texts. One way to reduce the costs for friends from the Philippines texting you is to obtain a sim card from one of the Philippine carriers that does international roaming. Friends in the Philippines can text to these cards for a very low rate. You will have to check with carriers in your own country to find the best rates for international texting.

Also be advised these Roaming cards are almost always prepaid. With some you can reload by going to their internet site. You can also purchase the SIMs online from some of the carriers. They can be taken out of roaming mode while you are in the Philippines and used to call and text your friends locally.

Those are the most common methods I am familiar with I am sure there are others. I have not covered the options in complete detail so if you have questions or more detailed info please let me hear it. I will find the links for at least a couple of the bigger Philippine Cellphone companies and post them on the links page. If you look and don’t see them I haven’t found them yet.

April 19 2009

There is one category I didn’t say anything about because I didn’t really know much about it. There are several different types of Internet phone connection services. These allow you to place long distance and international calls for a fixed fee. I don’t have detailed information on every company that offers this service so anyone who has knowledge of these please jump right in.

One of them I have had experience with is Magic Jack. It is a small device that plugs into a USB port on your computer you then plug a phone into the other end. The unit is about the size of a matchbox. The unit costs $20 plus $20 for the first year of service.

When set up in the US you get a local telephone number. You can call any number in the US or Canada for free. (OK for $20 a year but you know what I mean) You can also call any other Magic Jack anywhere in the world for free.

I bought one and set it up in the US the procedure is very simple. I then shipped it to a friend in the Philippines. I can now dial a local number and talk to them in the Philippines. Also from there they can call any number in the US or Canada. I have been using it for about a month and so far have had no problems. The connection has been clear and reliable.

Magic Jack will only work when connected to a computer and when the computer is turned on and online but what do you want for $20 anyway? So far I would say it has been well worth the money I spent. It is saving me $30 a month in international calls and we can talk as long as we like.  It also gives you voice mail. I haven’t really used this yet but the feature is active.

The other phone services of this type I have heard about require an Internet connection but the computer doesn’t have to be operating to use it. They also have a monthly service charge. The amount varies per company. Anyone out there use one of these other services?

Well it can happen to anyone on a short visit or making a permanent move. So if you need medical care what kind is available? If you happen to be in one of the remote provinces the answer will most likely be not very much without a long drive. In the larger towns and cities there are good hospitals and Doctors. Cost of medical is generally cheaper than in the US but hospitals normally want their money up front even if you have insurance if it is not an emergency it is best to inquire about this first. There are health insurance plans available which can offset or completely cover the costs of hospital treatments but you may have to pay the hospital first and then get reimbursed.

Doctor and Dental visits are quite reasonably priced. A visit to the doctor runs around P200 to a specialist around P350 At this writing the exchange rate is a little above 47:1. A teeth cleaning is around P600. Fillings and other dental work are also quite low when compared with prices in the US.

When looking for a Doctor or Dentist it is a good idea if possible to get a referral from someone. There are very good Doctors and Dentists available in the Philippines but like everywhere else there are also hacks. You stand a better chance finding the good ones by asking others who have used their services.

Hospital services also vary in quality depending on your location. The best hospitals tend to be in the larger cities. Like Doctor and Dentist costs the costs in a good hospital are inexpensive compared to a stay in the US. However if you have an extended stay or a major procedure the costs will mount up.

It is a very good idea if you are going for an extended stay or moving permanently to the Philippines that you look into medical insurance. I have links to a few on the links page. There are others as well. If you are a US military retiree TriCare is available to you in the Philippines. Contact them for more details.

There is quality Medical Care available in the Philippines but as anywhere choose your Medical providers with care.

Medications might include anything from treating a cut or scrape to a headache or cold or required medications to maintain your health. For these requirements there are large and small pharmacies which carry the supplies and medications necessary to treat these yourself.

Most medications are available without a prescription so if you can say it you can buy it. If you have medications you require you should be sure about weather a prescription is required. Be aware that a number of medications are known by different names than they are in the US or Europe so you might have to do some research to find out what to ask for. Also some medications are not available at all so you might have to find a substitute. Medications can usually be bought bought by the piece. (So you can buy two asprin for your headache.)  or in larger quantities. Bulk quantities are sometimes difficult to find if you want more than just a few. You may also have to check several pharmacies if what you need isn’t in common use. The prices vary and some medications can be quite expensive.

There are small pharmacies on almost every block in Cities and Towns they can also usually be found in more remote areas. They usually carry a supply of soaps lotions and minor medical treatment supplies. They will have a supply of various medications but due to their small size the selection they have are limited. They almost always have headache and cold medications their selection of other medications will vary with what is in demand in their area. Most medications will be sold by the piece.

The larger Chain Pharmacies are usually only found in cities and towns. Their range of available medications and other items is much larger. These are the places where you will sometimes be able to find items in bulk quantities.

If you are planning to stay long term in the Philippines and you require medications on a regular basis it would be a good idea to be certain the ones you require are available. A cost check would also be a good idea as I said before some items may be quite expensive.

Most common medications or their generic equivilents can be found in the Philippines. You may have to look around to determine where.

Shopping in the Philippines includes a wide variety of retail establishments and vendors. From upscale malls to coconuts or boiled corn on a cart. The city and local markets sell fresh meat, fish and vegetables as well as clothing and household items. Most vendors in a market cater to the local population so primarily local products are available. You will find a few stalls selling souvenir items and foreign products in a larger market.

There are a number of stores and supermarkets that carry imported products if you are looking for a touch of home. If you look around a wide variety of products are available. The malls of course are full of stores selling imported products. They are priced higher than most products for the local market.

There are drug stores and small retail stores known as Sari Sari Stores on every block. Almost any drug except controlled substances are available in drug stores (not always in every drug store) without a prescription. Often packaged so you can buy as few as 1 dose. Indeed large quantities are often difficult to find. Sari Sari stores usually carry items like soft drinks and beer as well as local liquors. They usually have an array of soaps, shampoos and snack items.

There are also vendors who walk from door to door or weave back and forth through traffic and along the sidewalks selling newspapers, cigarettes, t-shirts and bottled water as well as carpets and furniture and lets not forget Viagra and Cialis. You can buy cigarettes by the stick if you don’t want to get the whole pack. They will even light it for you if you don’t want to buy a lighter.

Electronics and imported liquors and food tend to be more costly where ever you find them. If you are able and willing to eat the local foods they tend to be much less expensive.

Let me give a recap here that is a little more organized:

Big Malls: Normally only found in larger cities. The will contain everything you would expect to find in a shopping mall in the U.S. Department Stores, Designer Clothing and Shoes, Restaurants, International and local food chain eateries, Movie Theatres, Electronics Hardware, and Appliance Stores. Usually also a supermarket that carries imported foods. Kiosks along the corridors sell snacks and various products. In short it’s like being back at home. (So why did you leave.) :) The air conditioning is normally very good so it can be a good place to relax and cool off after a hot day. This is normally a good place to look for imported goods.

Smaller Malls: Located in big and small towns. Clothing stores, sometimes a department store and theatres, usually has a food court, sometimes restaurants. 

Appliance and General Merchandise stores normally located in a shopping district or downtown area. Almost always cheaper prices than in the malls.

Local Supermarkets and Drug Stores. Smaller stores that cater primarily to the local population. Located in various neighborhoods in the town.

Market usually one big retail area in towns large enough to have them. In bigger cities there may also be several satelite markets. Most of the above listed stores have fixed prices. Almost everything in the market is negotiable.

The Area known as the Wet Market sells fresh meat poultry and fish. (Fresh meaning it was quite possibly mooing clucking or swimming this morning.) Not everything is delivered fresh everyday however. So shop with care. There will also be an area selling fruits and vegetables.

In addition there will be stalls selling clothing, hardware, plastic ware, kitchen utensils and practically anything else you can think of. 

The markets are normally crowded and have a certain air of distinction all their own. Almost none of these areas will ever be air conditioned. Shopping early is usually a good plan.

Sari Sari and small drugstores are found in numbers in every area of the town. The drug stores carry an assortment of commonly used drugs and toiletries. The sari sari stores carry soft drinks, liquor, snacks and small soaps and shampoos. Usually with these stores you walk to a window to make your purchase as most are too small to allow customers inside. 

As I said earlier with the drug stores except for controlled substances if you can say it you can buy it. and usually by the dose. Have a headache? You can step up and buy one or two aspirin. If you want larger quantities you will usually have to check in the larger drug stores.

Venders are found everywhere. Some with push carts or even animal drawn wagons and some who carry their selection on their arms or heads. These guys sell all sorts of things even furniture and carpets. Most common will be vendors selling bottled water or fruit or cigarettes. They also sell t-shirts watches, and souviners. Also the ever popular Filipino delicacies Chicharones, Salted eggs, and of course Balut.

The Philippines has a wide variety of public and private transportation for moving around on and between the over 7000 islands that make up the country. Public transportation of some kind is available in most areas. In more remote provinces this might consist of mini buses or shuttle vans.

I have included pictures of some of the types of vehicles used. Public transportation is usually inexpensive but not always convenient or fast. Taxis which are available in the larger towns are faster but more expensive than Jeepnys or Buses they are usually air conditioned. Jeepneys run on a set route but can be hired for special trips they will usually hold 18 to 20 passengers though there are larger and smaller ones on some routes they are air conditioned if the driver goes fast enough. :) 

Tricycles consist of a sidecar attached to either a motorcycle or a bicycle.  Buses come in various sizes and can be air conditioned or not.  They are most often used in town to town transportation they stop frequently to board or discharge passengers. Ferries of various types are used for inter island transportation. Many carry cargo or automobiles but some are just for passengers.

If you are living in the Philippines permanently you might also consider owning some means of private transportation I will talk more about that in my next post.